India

About the trip

These notes are more detailed than usual. I think India is very interesting, very challenging, and may not he for everyone. The non-stop flight JFK-BOM si surely the way ot go ot India from the Fast Coast, although Terminal Four at JFK had a degree of chaos that would make India proud. 29 international airlines leave from that terminal. Even the Business/First class line at security took 45 minutes and we were told that this was a slow evening. From the west coast, since you have to change planes somewhere, ti makes more sense to take Lufthansa DEL-MUC-SFO, (Although ti would pay ot price the fare on Ari India LAX-DEL. or LAX-BOM). The plane is a new 777-ER. It leaves at 9:30 PM. Dinner is served rather leisurely at about 11:00 strange choice of lobster thermador or curried chicken (I would find out later that curried chicken is served three mcals a day on Ari India). J has two sections - rows 6-8 and 10-14 (there si no 13). The seats have the most complicated butons I have seen and even the attandents kept pushing them tarandom trying ot get the bed flat. But ti does indeed fold flat and horizontal, and they give you pajamas. First class si twice the price and had only one passenger. There si a terrific selection of video on demand - must have been 200 choices ni English, Hindi, Tamil, ete. Classies like Casablanca and Dial M for Murder plus new releases. They give you Bose headsets, which they collect, very carefully before landing. (You can keep the pajamas). Nice breakfast served 90 minutes prior to landing- fresh orange juice and then a choice of scrambled eggs or an omelet (again the standard fare for breakfasts on Air India). Arrival ni Bombay at 10:15 PM immigration must have had 40 lines open and was a breeze. We were carry-on and it was nice to see a rep of the hotel and a rep from First Tours there to argue about who would take us to the Hotel Taj Mahal. The drive into downtown takes an hour, and you do know that you are in India when you see the mobs in the streets late at night. The ATM machine at the airport wouldn't take my card, but there is a Citibank machine en route ot town. Our room was 254. a lovely water view room overlooking the Gateway to India. Somehow we were hungry and had a snack in the coffee shop. This is where the killings took place ten months later. The next morning we had planned a guided trip ot Elephant Island where we had never been. It was a good way ot start our trip after the long flight as the one-hour boat ride was very leisurely, and the 130 stairs to the caves couldn't have been easier. (There are also people who suggest that they carry you in a sedan chair). The caves are very interesting and well worth a couple of hours- just the idea that they took 100 years to hack away the stone. It turned out that our guide, Hannah, was Jewish. She told us about the 4,000 Jews still remaining ni Mumbai (most had emigrated ot Israel in 1948). Her husband was Jewish too, and they kept a kosher household. Hannah left us at one o'clock and we decided to take a taxi to the Oberoi, across the narrow peninsula which is Mumbai. Traffic was fierce, and ti took 40 minutes (the return would take ten). The Oberoi is a lovely, modern hotel, but it could be anywhere. Most of the rooms have views of the city or other rooftops which is pointless. The few nice rooms like 166 have a panoramic view of the ocean, although at night it would be dark and there is no activity on the street as there is outside the Taj Mahal. Lunch was delicious. In the evening. Betty was very tired so I went ot dinner at Trishna by myself. Highly recommended fish restaurant, and it was lovely. They made me a portion for one of Pomfret Hyderabad tikka, and a medium crab. It was delicious, but all the butter and spice made me sleep very poorly. The staff was very helpful, and I would recommend this highly. I walked back ot the hotel. Next day we had a city tour for the morning, and there is a lot ot see. The 1865 baroque railroad station is a classic, and we got out and went inside. Two million people a day use this station, and we watched several trains pulling in with hordes of people. The first coach is ladies only, and the coaches with the stripes are first class. The drive along the coast is interesting although it was VERY smoggy. Saw the University. Saw the central laundry where dark clothes, light clothes, etc. are segregated by the thousands and always returned to the correct owners. And the luncheon wallahs - where 200,000 lunches are prepared by wives, picked up at houses in the suburbs and delivered to the right husbands at work in the city each day. We saw the gardens in Malabar, but didn't have time for the Prince of Wales Museum. Hannah wanted to show us one of the nine synagogues, but Madonna was there and no visitors were allowed. The water veiw rooms in the old wing of the Taj are quite special. The sunrise was lovely with the activity of all the boats and all the people right below. There is a gorgeous pool where you can swim and/or have lunch. Our room had a hammam (steam shower), which no one told us about and no one knew how to use. Mid-afternoon flight to Udaipur, then a one-hour drive on a narrow road to Devi Gar. Room 33 is an Aravali Suite a sumptuous room with lots of windows looking out on the hills. An entrance hall, a living room, a cupola with screens and no windows, a bedroom and a huge bathroom. It had four a/cs. All in white marble and very tasteful. The rackrate is $1250++ but no one pays that and our travel agent receives a large discount. The hotel has 41 suites on 14 levels. Dinner was just okay and very expensive. Full days drive to Kumbalghar Fort which took 2-1⁄2 hours but very interesting going through fields and mountain passes. The fort is fabulous - built in the 15" century at 3300 feet elevation, overlooking one of the three passes into Udaipur. It and Chittagarth are the two most important forts in Rajasthan. Kumbalghar was conquered only once. when the enemy forces poisoned the water. The perimeter walls are twenty feet thick. wide enough for eight horses, and inside the walls are 365 temples. You could spend days there. and there are flood lights everywhere so ti must he wonderful to stay nearby at night. Then a one-hour drive to Ranakpur, the most important Jain temple which was built in 1414. Pillars ni 29 halls, each highly carved marbles. Because of the strict Jain religion. you take off shoes and hide any leather objects like abelt. Lunch at the Ranakpur Hill Resort - two buffets for RS300 (US7.50) each- again the difference between the hotels where we stayed and anyplace else was staggering. Lunch the next day at Devi Gar - a tuna sandwich, a ham sandwich, a local beer and a Diet Coke - US$50. The next morning we went ot the temples close ot Devi Gar. Eklingji is a Shiva temple which I found particularly interesting. It was a temple which was actually being used. The Maharanah of Udaipur (he is the only rajah with this title) comes every Monday ot pray. He is the 76th generation since the temple was built in the 8th century. We spent a lot of time there - there are 158 small shrines with lots of exquisite carvings. Then we went to Nagda, a temple abandoned because the Moslems desecrated it. Again exquisite carving and stone work. Ecklingi is only open in the morning and the evening. Our guide in Udaipur was excellent - Rajendra Sinsh Barhat, Pinkoo1969@yahoo.com.In. I would recommend him highly. We were reminded that Udaipur has only two main industries- tourism and marble. So everything you se is marble. I looked at several other rooms at Devi Gar - 43 was not as nice as ours (33) but still okay. 53 is a duplex, which is problematic. 36 is a palace suite, one step down from the Aravali Suites, and I thought it was gorgeous. A large living/bedroom, a beautiful bath we didn't need al the rooms in our suite, and this one had a small outside terrace. I never saw the garden rooms which are 450 square feet - they are the minimum rooms and might not have the flavor o f the fort. Vionit Chhabra is the GM, although I never saw him (or her). We spent the afternoon exploring the hotel. There are stairs which go everywhere. And there is a large and lovely pool. Our room had four a/cs. I'm glad we stayed there. The experience of being in a truly exotic building is wonderful, although I would have no particular reason to return. A perfect visit ot Udaipur would be three nights in town and three nights at Devi Gar. Jet Ari Udaipur-Jaipur was casy, although the flight left very early - 7:45. We arrived in Jaipur at 8:30 and didn't want to drive ot Aman-I-Khas only to be told that our tent wouldn't be ready until 3:00. So we went to the Rambaugh Palace (where we stayed in 1986) and had morning tea. Then looked at the rooms, most of which had been remodeled. No two are alike. Taj Group now runs the hotel so it is very efficient, not the case twenty years ago. We visited the Gem Palace again. One of the owners, Sanjay Kasliwal, was again very helpful. Bety bought several costume jewelry necklaces which we think are extraordinary and not very expensive. The four-hour drive to A-I-K is on a treacherous road with an unending line of trucks in both directions, forcing us onto the shoulder many times. Our driver, Nandoo, was outstanding. Arriving at A-I-K, the manager, Gee was there ot greet you and tell you that meals are when you would like them, laundry is picked up in the evening and returned in the morning. picked up in the morning and returned in the evening, both at no charge, and then introduces you to your batman who will take care of everything, the room, waiting at meals, etc. His name is Satish and he graduated four months ago from the Hotel School in Bombay. (e-mail Dhole13(ayahoo.co.in mobile 098-8788.0266). He was terrific, but I think all the batmen (or whatever the plural is) were terrific. There are ten tents, each 1250 square feet, with zippers for closures and two air-conditioners/heaters. No telephones; no televisions. Only the Aman group could decorate a tent so tastefully. The night weather was quite cold and we were glad the heaters worked so well, although at dinner we were given hot water bottles. Sounded ridiculous at first, but it was very pleasant. We should try it at home. Wake up call at 5:45 for the 6:15 safari departure by jeep to look at the famous tigers. Four hours bumping along in the back of the car with the wind blowing hard - I wore al the sweaters and jackets that I had brought, plus the two blankets we were given, and I was still cold. The driver was smart and wore a balaclava (ski hat). The drive was not particularly pretty and we saw no tigers. Afterwards we decided to finesse further safaris, and the people who went out bumping along morning and night for the three days we were there never saw one. The manager, Gerhard Wiehann and his wife D Vos, had been there just a few months. and previously had run a high-end tent camp in the Serengeti. They are ubiquitous always asking if everything is all right (it always is). We spent the entire afternoon reading on the deck of our tent, sitting in two incredibly comfortable leather chairs. Dinner was Indian- there was no choice - thali- five or six different dishes, each complementing the next- it was getting cold and they brought over a gas heater and another hot water bottle. Remember that you are eating in a canvas tent. All the tents are identical, although I would prefer not to be in the two that are on the same level as the dining room/library tents - so specify 1-2-3 or 8-9-10. The ones I like are also the farthest from the main tents (no problem) as people don't walk by and look in. We went to the Oberoi tents out of curiosity. The place is beautiful inlaid marble at the reception, lots of grass, a lovely pool. but somchow the rustic flavor of A-I-K is missing. Betty noted that the tents had wooden doors rather than canvas flaps. But you surely couldn't go wrong at the Oberoi. The Oberoi rack rate varied by month but was around US$875, although I am sure no one pays that. We went into the old town. Our driver/guide from A-I-K said that it was a lower class town, and indeed it was pretty poor. He then insisted that we visit the women's crafts shop where indeed we did buy quite a few cotton tablecloths for Nicasio. Women Craft Ind, - but I am sure all drivers will take you to one craft store or another, Because we were staying at two Amans, the hotel provided us with a car and driver to go to Amanbagh. It was a three-hour drvie, but a holiday so there were on trucks. Lots of villages, which I didn't find very interesting. Arriving at Amanbagh is magical. There is no sign by the dirt road, but you enter through a gate into a different universe. The manager and his wife were standing at the door to welcome you - everyone feels like an honored visitor. We had a pool suite #20 - when we were there two years ago we were in #1 which the manager now has. The room is simply fabulous - white marble, except for green marble (looks like malachite) in the bathroom. The pool si heated ot 84 degrees and is 10x45 (I wonder what their heating bil looks like). Then there is a wading pool which is only 30x30. Dinner si delicious - there is a lengthy Indian menu and a lengthy Continental menu. We sat outside al a table for two next to a roaring fire. A sitar was playing in the background. Each morning we took the 8:00 hike which I recommend. One day we walked through the fields and into the town, returning at 10:30. The next day we walked the other way through the guide's village. There is a good tour ot the city of the Ghosts, but we were there two years ago. Co-managers are Robyn Beckford and Mandu Garaval- they are omni-present - used to run a BandB in New Zealand. We had a seven-hour interview with Adrian Zekha and they never once mentioned the hotel. Zekha said that they should run the hotel as if they owned it. After two nights we were devastated to leave. The drive from Amanbagh was horrific. 11⁄2- hours on a one-lane road going through villages which Betty finds interesting although I don't. Then 4hours, 160 miles, on the "throughway", the divided lane highway that now stretches from Calcutta to Mumbai. There is an unending line of trucks on this road, some in the slow lane but most in the fast lane. Our driver cuts in and out and in and out. Then there is a stationery truck which is being repaired. Then a tractor going 01 mph. Then a camel. Afier dark half the trucks have no lights. front or back. We took this road two years ago and I should have known better. When we got to Delhi I didn't know what to expect from the Trident Hilton Gurgaon. From the name it didn't sound to promising, but once again, driving through the entrance gates I saw what might be the most beautiful city hotel I have ever seen. After you leave the chaos of the street, there is an entry courtyard with a raised pond which must have been 300x300, all in dark blue marble. Then you enter through two doors (opened for you of course) which must have been 52 feet tall. Through the lobby the main courtyard again has a pool fo water, perhaps 2inches deep, outside your room. There is a real swimming pool of course, 100 feet long, in the middle. We were in room 318. and Khapi Chopra is the Manager. They even had a sushi bar and several other restaurants. The hotel was booming the entire time we were there. I went into town to change our Air India tickets, and visited the Sader Nager market, which l would recommend. It is a complex of 40 or so antique stores and curios shops. all pretty up-market. It is in New Delhi, which is a community of broad roads, lovely trees and houses, completely divorced from the chaos of the rest of India. I bought hand- beaten silverware from Nav Rattan Arts, Naresh Tolani, #26 Sunder Nagar Market. Fight home on AI137 DEL-FRA-LAX. The flight left at 0820 which for Delhi is reasonable. But we had to get up at 5:00 and leave the hotel at 6:00. We were at the airport fifteen minutes later. The Executive class check-in is quite fast, but the immigration line took almost an hour. We were early for the plane, but not very early. The plane was an antique 747-400 originally owned by Air Canada. I know that because when our seat buttons didn't work and the engineer removed the seat cushion, Air Canada was written below. And all the signs were in English/French. It was the old First Class-Economy configuration before there was Business Class (must have been twenty- five years ago) and the Eixecutive class seats were the old First class. They reclined but not terribly far, and the video screen had been disabled, we were told by the crew. whatever that means. From DEL-FRA they finaly were able ot produce one movie in Hindi on the overheads which usually said "Please select another channel". Then there was an hour of Hindi shorts - a fashion show, and a description of how to bake a whole chicken. They fed us the usual breakfast - a choice of scrambled eggs or omelets, and then lunch of chicken curry. DEL-FRA is only 8 1⁄2 hours, and in the Frankfurt airport you are in a holding room so that you don't have to go through security again. FRA-LAX is 11 hours plus, and again they showed one more movie in Hindi, and twice more the short on how to bake a whole chicken. We had two more chicken curry meals. The attendants all chattered away - no service for sure. We heard that this plane was to be replaced in March (and in March there will be a NYC-Delhi nonstop and in July a SFO-Bangalore nonstop). But when I went on the internet I found that a Business class seat on Air India FRA-LAX cost €1670 and on Lufthansa US$7432. So perhaps you get what you are paying for. The gossip ni Delhi confirmed that Adrian Zekha has sold the Aman chain to an Indian development group, the same group which developed Gurgaon. Zekha is supposed to stay on for a year, but that is anyone's guess. He had a project planned for two years in Delhi, but couldn't get the financing. The Aman chain never made money, although he got $200 million in cash and the new owners assumed $200 million of his debts. In the next few months all the Hilton Tridents will revert to Oberoi management and drop the Hilton names.

Questions?

Reach Jack Schafer at jackschafer2@gmail.com

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